Wool Evaluation & Selection: Understanding Quality and Best Practices
Wool differs significantly in quality, and proper evaluation ensures that only the most suitable fibres are used, reducing waste and maximising efficiency. By carefully assessing the wool immediately after shearing, it becomes easier to separate different grades and direct them to their most appropriate use.
Key Factors in Wool Selection
Wool Quality by Body Region:
- Best: Shoulder area—highest quality, fine and uniform.
- Good: Back and sides—slightly coarser but still valuable.
- Lower Quality: Hindquarters, belly, and groin—often coarser and less useful for fine textiles.
Breed-Specific Characteristics:
- Some breeds, like Merino, produce fine, uniform wool across the body.
- Other breeds may have significant variation, requiring careful sorting.
Key Characteristics to Assess:
Fibre Length: Longer fibres are generally stronger and easier to work with.
Fibre Thickness: Determines softness; finer wool is better for garments worn close to the skin.
Crimp: Indicates elasticity and resilience; finer wools typically have more crimp.
Hand Feel: Healthy wool feels soft and supple, while dry or brittle wool may indicate poor quality.
Fibre Homogeneity: Uniform fibres yield consistent results in spinning and weaving.
Fibre Strength: Strong fibres withstand tension and processing without breaking.
Smell: Wool should have a clean, natural scent, free from signs of decomposition or excessive moisture.
Common Wool Defects to Avoid
Second Cuts: Short fibres caused by improper shearing.
Matted Areas: Felted or rough sections that are difficult to process.
Kemp: Coarse, brittle fibres that affect texture and dye absorption.
Dandruff: White flakes of skin that are hard to remove.
Canary Stains: Yellowed fibres, often caused by urine exposure.
Excessive Vegetable Matter: Too many contaminants can reduce wool’s usability.
By refining wool selection techniques, even small-scale producers can enhance their fibre quality and ensure that each fleece is used to its fullest potential. With time and experience, identifying the best wool for different applications becomes second nature.